After my first and successful attempt at altering a commercial pattern with StephC’s pants block, I decided to give another try at Burda 01/2006 n° 107. I liked the shape of the trousers and most of all the big yoke, but despite my efforts, the first version is too tight and I can’t do anything about it. I have already bitten a little into the seam allowance and it’s not enough.
So armed with my new knowledge and confidence I modified the pattern: I was a bit worried that I might not be able to do it, but with Steph’s help, I can do anything now 🙂 – regarding trousers at least! So again I placed my block under the pattern paper I had previously traced, aligned it with the grainline and re-draw all of it: crotch line, outseam etc. I traced the yoke separately by cutting the paper following the darts and joining both pieces. The curves needed a little re-drawing but nothing too complex.
The fabric I chose is a linen and lycra blend, so it has a lot of drape and needed to be fitted a little more so I took in less than 1/4″ (6 mm) at the outseam.
I’m wearing it with my second version of the Renfrew pattern (view C): you can see I really like this top. I need to try the other versions now! I used a striped jersey totally off grain because the stripes would have been vertical and that’s not what I wanted, so far I haven’t had any problems with it. You can’t see it but I’ve matched the stripes on the sides but not at all for the sleeves, I failed there. It doesn’t really bother me because I’m not supposed to show this side of the sleeves.
My fly front zipper didn’t work as I wanted this time so I went online and had a look at Lladybird’s tutorial and S. Betzina’s video. It made it really easy. Except that I did not place the zipper on the correct side so I had to unpick it again. When placing the zipper along the centre front, make sure you place it on the left side (ie on the opposite side to where you want it to sit). Basically place it exactly as S. Betzina places hers: this way your topstitching will effectively be on the right part of the front.
I went for buttons again on the front, and that’s something I really need to practice, my buttonholes are not pretty at all. I tried to look online aswell, but all the tutorials involve a fancy fairy recent sewing machine with a buttonhole foot or a built-in 4-step buttonhole maker. I don’t have that at all, my sewing machine is an old Bernina 731 probably from the 1950s or 1960s and it doesn’t have this type of equipment. I’m not planning to change it any time soon, I love it but could any of you point me to a good tutorial on how to make machine buttonholes without a buttonhole foot?