Today is a big day! I’m finally able to show trousers that actually fit me, in which I feel very comfortable, I can sit down easily, nothing is too tight and no one can see my underwear (not that I usually like to show it, but you know what happens sometimes with low-waist trousers). I am very happy, as you can imagine!
This is all due to StephC from the 3hours past blog: she offers a custom pants block based on your own measurements and helps with fitting issues and alterations when needed. I can tell you that’s it’s the best investment for my money recently! The most important thing for me was of course to be able to alter commercial patterns because you can not seriously sew the same pair of trousers all your life: design details are important. Another good thing is that I don’t have to worry about the sizes on offer because I have this block and I will always be able to cut my size. It’s more than a detail when you consider that most Burda magazine patterns I own stop at size 44, which again is fine for my waist but not for my hips.
So to start Steph asks you to make a muslin and then do some adjustments when necessary: here’s a beautiful shot of my backside wearing the 2nd muslin, not bad eh?
From there and with comments and recommendations from Steph, I started my first commercial pattern:
You’ll recognise the blue/green Burda pattern paper; I placed my block just underneath it and used photoshop to trace the alteration I planned.
So here’s my first try with this commercial pattern: it’s Burda 8488, a wide-legged sailor type of trousers with a side zip and a faux button front zip. Typically this pattern stopped at size 44, but now I don’t care anymore..
and from the side:
I’m really happy with this!
Here is the faux bib with buttons, I was smart this time and didn’t bother with buttonholes! I didn’t sew it at the top, so it makes a little pocket though I will probably never place anything in it (apart a piece of paper maybe), that would be stupid wouldn’t it?
For the facings, I used a leftover of an Ikea fabric I had sewn into a knitting bag a few years ago. To keep the facing down I stitched it in the ditch from the outside.
The black fabric is a plain cotton, rather lightweight, and probably not the best for a pair of trousers, but I didn’t have enough not-too-good fabric to make this first try (could be called a wearable muslin) and didn’t want to go fabric shopping as I was too eager to start!
So I am very happy with the service Stephanie provided, and I highly encourage you to turn to her if you have fit issues with trousers, it really makes a difference. And now I feel so confident in trousers making that I’ve altered a pattern with a yoke: yes I’ve cut darts and moved them and all that and it works! I just have to finish the pair so I can show you.
Right, now I’ll go post my me-made-may photo (day3) and get back to my sewing machine!