After the semi-success of the coat I sewed last year, I wanted a new and warmer coat. I’ve had my eye on the Pepernoot Coat nearly since it was published, quite some time ago. I love the pockets!
The Pepernoot Coat sewing pattern is avalaible in pdf and in English (also in Japanese if you have such skills) and it cost me 12.30 €. The size range goes frome EU 34 to 48. It includes the pattern for the lining – a nice touch, because it means you don’t have to worry about your patternmaking skills.
The outer fabric comes from Tissus Price; it’s not what I had in mind at the beginning. I initially wanted to make this coat in a blue-grey or turquoise wool fabric I saw last year on Bennytex’s website, but unfortunately – and not surprisingly – it was discontinued and there wasn’t much choice in store for wool or coat fabric when I started looking for it at the end of September. It made me wonder whether I was the only one planning to actually finish my coat before the cold days arrived! Anyway, I found this nice and warm polyester and viscose fabric. It’s thick and seems to be of a nice quality: it hasn’t pilled yet and I’ve been wearing it daily for 3 months now.
I actually bought the quilted lining in a brick-and-mortar shop during my last working trip to Paris (Le Gentleman des Tissus). It’s my first time sewing such fabric and I really enjoy it: it’s soft and warm and gives a professional look to the inside of the coat.
Nothing special for the thread, I just used it doubled for the topstitching as I was too lazy to order specific thread.
Modifications done after the muslin
Thanks to the muslin, I discovered that the sleeves were on the long side and more importantly they were super wide. I removed 4 cm in total. According to the measurements table, for my muslin I cut a 44 for the top part to the waist and graded to a 46 for the hips. Unnecessary! As you can see from the photos, a straight 44 for the whole pattern is largely enough. I could have gone down another size, but keeping it a little too big is great for layering underneath. And since the shoulders fit well, I think the coat doesn’t look too big.
I followed Mari’s advice and put snaps to help close the coat. However I rarely use them because the front band stays nicely in place. Oh well, these snaps give a nice finished touch.
The good part
The drawings in the pattern are beautiful and very detailed; the instructions are super clear: it’s been a long time since I’ve had such a pleasant sewing experience. Before I started sewing, I contacted the designer about using a quilted lining and she gave me a quick and nice answer.
Another plus: it wasn’t in the pattern pieces but I remembered to make a hanging loop 🙂
What could be improved
The raw edges of the opening of the pockets aren’t finished in the inside and they fray; it means I sometimes have threads hanging from the pocket opening, not great. It’s really a pity because apart from that, there’s nothing wrong to say about this pattern. You could argue that I’m not exactly a newbie and I could have anticipated this and you’d be right!
To sum up
This was my first time sewing from a Waffle Pattern (I’m very tempted by the Caramel jacket/cape) and it was an enjoyable experience: I recommend this designer’s work! What about you? Have you tried any of her patterns?